g1lgamesh

thanks for making me feel welcome:)

cheers fella!

No mate I cannot as I work for Lamptron. Maurizio (Oneros) and I are work colleagues and it would be a conflict of interest. I will post my other build soon. The theme on the other mod is that I like Ancient Sumerian history and as such I read and write cuneiform fluently. As a result i made a build called 'Sumerian Cry' (which is on the BIT-TECH forums) I will post that here soon. However there is no harm in doing what you can not for the sake of a contest, but the sake of community spirit:)

Additional Rules Like KustomPCS on facebook Kustom PCs - Impresa locale - Ayr | Facebook Like Lamptron UK on facebook Accedi | Facebook Remember EU and UK entrants ONLY! All mods posts must be made in this thread ***EDIT im deciding the place winners on this one, So a handy hint is......... I am looking for originnality as mods based on games BORE me! TO post YOUR MOD entry please visit MOD THE FAN CONTROLLER Contest - Kustom PC's Forums

more tomorrow drive bay will be ready

cheers fella:)

First of all First Side panel completed Please note all photos are taken before the final clear protective layer has been added, the reason for that is that I allow a MONTH to cure! Side panel outside Side Panel inside. Ok next The only spare NEW spacing style rad i have right now is an Old Black Ice GT Stealth. UV BLUE at that =yuucccccccccck. Obviously the colour doesnt go with the builds...... So after some painting and yes i had to paint the fins:( Due to paint type it wont effect the performance very much it now looks like this: The build is REALLY starting to come along now:)

Front Panel outside After de-greasing and priming (as shown earlier) To get this look, I used 'Polar White' then masked the first 8.5cm off the bottom as this will be for the red colour. The red used is a Metallic Hycote 'Tango RED' which goes fairly well with the off-white, but it is still a little harsh even though its a lot more classy than what I call 'Slapper' Red. To balance it out a little i sprayed a fine mist of crystal silver so it appears there are clouds within the red. As you can see there is still a small issue to fix on the bottom right near the colour line. The inside was essentially the same as above, however gloss white was used instead.

Redid mother board tray. I cannot alter the slight messup I did with the LED holes, however at least I can repaint the aforementioned tray. This now marries with the PCIE backing plate. This is before the clear protective layer has been added.

Finished cross struts Polar white on the outside and gloss white on the inside:0 Backing plate m/b tray area Nice smooth job even if I have to say so myself:D

Some more shots of the same plate but on differing light conditions. next the cross struts After the usual sanding, de-greasing and primer etc Finally I used Polar white on the outside And gloss white on the inside. this is the first coat only. note i havent coated this side of the ends really. The reason for this is that all this has to be assembled again:) Plus this side of the ending section is never seen as it slots into the front and back panels

next we have the back panel Before sanding and de-greasing After two coats of primer and a good sanding down

First of all made a bit of a mess drilling these holes. These are for the LED's the will be mounted near the edge I never realised how thin the aluminium was, well at least the LED's are going underneath the motherboard in order to create a nice backlit effect.

PCIE Section. FOr this I used two coats of primer, two coats of Hycote Tango Red (Metallic) and a coat of crystal silver (same company) FOr this I didnt just wish for a candy effect, one wanted a kind of a cloud/mixed colour painting Anyway I applied the crystal silver coating whilst the tango red was still wet in order to achieve this effect. this is before the clear protective coating has been applied.

FRONT panel sanded down, just before washing after washing, two coats of primer and then sanded down with 600 grit paper.

Next stage is the Drive Bay area as you can see this has had a really good sanding down. After using two coats of primer, drying and sanding Using polar white for this in order to create a more balanced feel inside the case. bought this nice handy attachment at wilkinsons Once all the sanding/washing/primer/paint and clear protective coating has been applied... Motherboard tray all marked up

ONCE all the drilling has been completed it is time to sand everything down ready for spray-painting. Using 80 grit sandpaper I sanded all of the base plate down. NOTE YOU DO NOT NEED TO GET RID OF ALL THE ANODISING!! Simply enough to roughen it up to allow the paint to take a grip. Once completed you need to DE-GREASE and clean the plate. I use either liquid hand soap or dish washing fluid with hot water. Afterwards DRY the plate properly (you dont want a lizard skin effect trust me) Once completed leave to stand for a few hours, then your ready for your first coat of primer! REMEMBER Many layers of THIN COATS are better than just one thick coat. Sorry for the lack of focus here, the camera went a bit weird on me. watch out for runs, if you find any wait until the plate is dry then sand down with 5-600 grit sandpaper. I leave 3 hours to dry, sand down with fine sandpaper in preperation for the 2nd coat of primer I dont wantto put my usual three coats of primer on as this all has to fit back together again. So two should do. I left the last coat of primer to dry overnight and on goes the first layer of gloss white paint: dont worry if the first coat of white gloss is thin and patchy, thats for the reason its meant to be (remember about using thin layers?) REMEMBER TO FINELY SAND BETWEEN PAINT LAYERS (as you would on the primer stage) so that the next layer of paint can grip (leave a couple of hours between each stage) After the 2nd layer still patchy but not as bad. Use 600 grit sand paper and sand again once dry Once the third layer has been applied WAIT AT LEAST 48 HOURS BEFORE application of the clear protective coating. After this has been completed

THE LITTLE OWL Little is just an understatement here as I will be using an XSPC H1 case. STORYLINE: Jakob (pronounced Yakob) commissioned me to build a kick **** machine BASED on the NEW NOCTUA NF-F12 (ones that are optimised for water cooling rads) fans. In addition he wanted me to base the case on Noctua collours, however some people do not like these, so one had to base this build around a slighty differing theme. If you look at the noctua website, the colours are much more 'red' than the fans themselves (which are brown based) IDEA EXPLAINED. Essentialy this is going to be part scratch build/part mod with a dark red and white themed case with the internals being polar white and typhoon red. The RED LASER TUNNEL effect will be used here Sponsors so far: Noctua (Ofcourse) LAMPTRON (ofCourse) MAYHEMS INNOVATION COOLING for the IC Diamond note: Remember the LASER PROJECT? This will be used in here. PAINT TO BE USED HYCOTE tornado RED HYCOTE POLAR WHITE HYCOTE GLOSS WHITE HYCOTE PRIMER HYCOTE CLEAR OVERCOAT Hycote Crystal Silver Hycote Pepper RED pEARLeSCENT hYCOTE tANGO RED mETALLIC Photo of a default XSPC H1 CASE Remember my last build where I used acrylic feet instead of the luggage-trolly-like castor wheels? well since the mounting of the castors are exactly the same as the Mountain Mods level, we can re-use that idea. Take one XSPC H1 Base plate carefully mark out where the fifth hole for the LED is to go. score a line from bottom left to the top right mounting hole and likewise for bottom right to top left. Now do the same for all four acrylic feet mounts Now here is where I had a problem, as I didnt have a centre punch available in order to create a pilot for the drill. So i thought of using an engraving tool that comes with my dremel set. Slowly but firmly press the dremel onto the desired spot This then allows a 2mm pilot hole with the dremel Now that is sorted lets use the big drill shall we? Press the drill trigger slowly as to drill gently through the delicate aluminium (DO NOT USE HAMMER ACTION) This then creates a nice 5mm hole for the LED to shine into the acrylic feet. TESTING THE FIT Note the LED has just enough room to fit whilst leaving the 5mm room to have a grip within the hole. watch out for the next part:D

Hello everyone My apologies for typing in English I am having to use google translate in order for this to be understandable to me. I hope to contribute and have fun on the forums. Kindest Regards G1lgamesh