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I'm officially in with this new scratch project... This project is about the "kirov" of Red Alert 2. im a fan of these great game and here is my tribute.

Ciao a tutti modderoni!! Eccomi anche qui a postare il mio worklog in corso d'opera, per partecipare al contest! Ecco...:cheazz: dati i miei tempi biblici, spero solo di poter finire in tempo...a presto con l'inizio del mio worklog!!

IL PIANO: Costruire un case da zero con un sacco dirivetti, e dico un sacco...probabilmente più di 1000 rivetti, per dare un numero; la mia ispirazione è stata la moto che Paul Jr ha fatto costruire un paio di mesi fa per l'American Chopper Build-Off. Questo è tutto, per ora! Molto altro ancora a seguire, presto!

Mod'n Roll - Worklogs [ENG] In this thread we will link all the worklogs you are submitting to participate at the Mod'n Roll contest. [iTA] In questo thread raccoglieremo tutti i link ai vostri worklog inviati per partecipare al contest Mod'n Roll. Author - Mod Name Autore - Nome del mod Alarico - Artefacto Dwemer Angel OD - The Theory of Everything Argonauta - King Tiger Box ArgOsMod - SteamPlanet asrock94 - blu devil awadon - ORGANIC II bludragon - MR.GREEN celim - mesh mod chetinox - KOMPRESSOR Corsaronero333 - LIAN-LI Pitstop T60 Red ? Corsaronero333 - The green water of class Dave2010 - My GBW Obsidian 800D Diegojavbau - Hi-Tek armoured case DjinnVale - Project V8 Dot_Kappa - Espresso FASTENFURIOS - Obsidian 800D Black Square Luciel - APASF ("A Post-Apocalyptic Steampunk Future") Mad_Bull - Frattura masbuskado - Annihilation Squad masbuskado - dextiny Mastrox - The mechanics II momod - DEAD Space 2 Mod momod - Dragon Rider Castle Mod momod - Under The Hood MooZ - Kirov Nikolaj - Project Orion Olaf_Mod - ViKinG MoD sacuragy - Alien Schimat - Silicium Tortured_soul - Der Tyrann 2099 Tortured_soul - The Crow 2.0 warboy - NORI MACHINE WeisseS - Baroque

Ragazzi, con piacere vi presento il mod con cui parteciperò al contest "Mod'n Roll 2012" --->> ESPRESSO Il mod è un autocostruito la cui base di partenza è una macchina del caffè non più funzionante. Quando ho visto la scocca metallica, mi sono detto "ma non si può buttarla via così", una vocina nella mia testa ripeteva "prendimi, prendimi..." ipnottizato :hypo: l' ho messo nel laboratorio!! Dopo aver rimosso i pulsanti frontali , l' ormai ex-macchina si presentava così: Questa sarà la nuova casa del pc che uso tutti i giorni, un pc base, dedicato alla navigazione,mail,gestione delle foto e poco altro. L' hw non è di certo recente ma al momento svolge bene il suo lavoro. Ecco le caratteristiche: Mobo micro-atx con vga integrata , Athlon 64 , hd sata ali no brand sb-live (avete letto bene, l'audio integrato non mi fa impazzire) un unità ottica standard. Questo è giusto un antipasto, mi farò vivo presto con qualche up !! Ciauz Kappa :clapclap:

salve a tutti ragazzi, vi presento il mio secondo mod il progetto "frattura" iniziato l'anno scorso per partecipare al contest della cooler master e mai terminato, il case di partenza è un cooler master elite 335 un po acciaccato (molto ) regalatomi da un negozio vicino casa vi presento il case

Mod’n Roll Modding Contest Be the Dremel Hero! ciao ragazzi spero di farvi divertire con il mio secondo lavoro da modder:) la vittima sarà un un Chieftec Dragon nuovo ma un modello del lontano 2004,sarà un lavoro molto classico niente stravolgimenti particolari dato che al momento non sono alla mia portata:fiufiu: farò le cose più classiche per un case mod,verrà riverniciato ,montato un impianto a liquido ,rifatto il frontale e logicamente finestrato,il resto verrà da se. come da rito ecco le foto della vittima tutta intera. a presto per nuovi up:coolsmiley:

Hello every one today we have a new mod on a brand new case from IN WIN it's the dragon rider case full size tower very great look best case i have ever mod sponsor by:IN WIN first will start with some pic of the case and start mooooooooood on it toady i just start the work here some pic of what i done so far get some poly foam from any hardware store

Hello every one this time mod on a CM Storm Enforcer will mod it to dead space 2 here is some pic and idea in the front i will use a Styrene for the mask and will lighting it idea

The idea of ??this mod, is to preserve the original idea, take it to another level, ie, make a cathedral in honor to the movie: "The Crow" Final Pictures:

Hi Everyone, As I mentioned in my Fallout Cause SP, I was done for the season modding wise. This project is actually for a client who has asked me with quite a bit of detail exactly what he wants. Since it was simple enough and not to expensive, I figured it´s a cool way to do a sort of tutorial about painting and light modding on a budget for those of you who want to get in to modding but have no idea where to start. This project should be done in a matter of days, and well, I hope it helps you newbies to get ideas of what to do for your first project. For those of you more experienced and hardcore modders I invite you to comment on this thread giving suggestions on things newbies can do and of course feel free to correct my way of doing things if you feel yours is better or simply easier for newbies to do, I will be using my methods which I have learned out of trial and error over the years. Because it is meant to be a budget mod I am going to be using spraycans as opposed to my usual compressor and gun to show you that you can get a decent finish even with cans. And that at the end of the day most of us buy compressors and paintguns to do fine detailing and to save money (paint is much cheaper if it doesnt come in a spraycan). Things you will need for this mod (hardware and accesories not included, that part is really up to you). 1: Sanding paper of two kinds. First a High gritt to remove old paint from the old chasis and a low gritt to sand down between paint layers (this last one is not essential but you will find you get a much smoother finish by doing so). 2: Spraycan Primer (Acrylic based, not plastic, sinthetic or any other kind), I will be using a grey primer but really any other color primer is fine. 3: Spraycan Paint, (Acrylic based, not plastic, sinthetic or any other kind) 1 400ml can should be enough for a mid-size chasis if you do it right but get 2, just in case and of course extra cans for any other secondary colors. 4: Spraycan Clear Lacquer (Acrylic based, not plastic, sinthetic or any other kind), once all is dry you need this to seal the job and prevent paint from peeling off and scratching due to use and abuse. 5: An old chasis, the older and cheaper, the better. 6: Masking tape or Painters Tape, the second one gives you a cleaner finish but the first one is much cheaper, so it´s up to you. Total Cost in my specific case (this may vary) 60€ Optional: A Dremel rotatory tool. Get the wired one, not the wireless one. If you go for the most basic one (the 200) it should be enough for what you need for this project (i.e. the cutting discs it brings) Total Cost in my local store: 40€ // Let´s get started. First, the chasis, this specific chasis was given to me by the client, he wanted a cylon inspired chasis, just slightly, nothing to fancy to have as his lanbox, Becuase of the old-school curves and handle, this old chasis makes a perfect candidate. We have to dismantle everything that can possibly come off, as it will make our lifes easier when it comes to sanding and painting, not to mention a better finish. Once that is done we need to sand it down using the high gritt sanding paper, this will remove any superficial paint and all the dirt that has acumulated on the surface over the many years. Once that is done, we need to clean it, personally, I use distilled water to do so, others use alcohol, it´s up to you, just don´t use normal water. Now that it´s dry, it´s time for a coat of primer (I find one coat is enough, again, it´s up to you). The great thing about acrylic based paint is that it dries in no time whatsoever, you can go ahead and do the second coat in a matter of 15 min if you don´t care about the light gritt sanding in between, in which case I recommend waiting 20-30 min before doing so which is what I normally do unless I want a dirty finish, like I wanted on the fallout cause sp project.. Ok Now we´re ready for some paint. Because of the theme chosen for this project, I´m going for some gun metal, although any alloy wheel metal should do the job! As for the inside of the case, I suggested dark red to the client as I remember the inside of cylons being bionic but I might be wrong here? Aniway, the client wants black, so black it is. To match the outside, I´ve gone for a glossy black, for newbies however I recommend matt black as glossy basically shows every single mistake you have and will ever make. Not to mention any irregularity on the case´s surface. And that´s it for today, more tomorrow! // Hi Guys, Second day of the tutorial proyect. Everything in the case except the base chasis is made out of plastic like a lot of old cases tend to do, specially when they attempted to modernize them by not making them a simple square case as making these curves in steel would be a lot more expensive for them. This, for our purpase is good and bad, bad because making clean cuts is quite hard as the plastic melts when using a dremel or any other kind of automatic cutting tool, however doing it by hand wouldn´t give us a very clean finish either, so we use the dremel (obviously for those of you who decide against buying such a tool or similar, you can either try to do it manually or skip this step all togueter) and once done, we sand it down using the high gritt, and the low gritt for the surface after the cuts are done. I´ve made a diagonal cut that will go with the black strip design in order to further down the line add a red cathode, I sanded it down and did as clean a cut as possible (to my skills) being entirely made out of plastic: While that dried I´ve gone ahead and I´ve pà inted the top gun metal and covered everything except the handle witch will match the side strips, in order to paint it black: While we wait for that to dry, I´ve painted what we´re going to be mounting on the front, in this case, the dual dimm version of the NZXT Sentry which I´ve taken apart (only 4 screws hold the pcb and lcd to it´s casing) in, of course, a gun metal tone. Now that the side is dry I´ve gone ahead and masked everything that will remain gun metal with masking tape, for the border between gun metal and black I´ve used painters tape, to give us that perfect line. I´ve repeated the process on the other side and it´s dry now, I´ve also gone ahead and given it some war wounds and remember when I said plastic had it´s good and bad side? well this is the good side, because plastic melts it´s so much easier to give it a burn effect, hell it ain´t even an effect, we literally get some matches or a lighter and go ahead and burn the borders of the hole done with a dremel. Once done, we get the black spraycan and spray very gently and right next to it sideways so only traces of paint get on the surface, this gives us that burned effect on the rest of the side: While I´m at it, with the high gritt sanding paper, I´ve gone ahead and given it wear and tear on the borders and lightly scratched the hole surface (but be carefull not to go all the way down to the plastic, we still want to keep that gun metal color. If you mess up, don´t panic, just give it a light coat of gun metal, wait for it to dry, and try again ; ) Now I didn´t quite remember if the original cylons had something similar to blood inside, but I remember the modern cylon ships did, but it wasnt as red as blood, it was quite darker with a tone of brown. So I´ve gone ahead and made him bleed through the wounds with a blood red, giving it a rust brown slightly on top so we still see red tones. It also helps it give that dry look, like it didn´t just happen, it´s been like that for a while. While all that dries, I´ve gone ahead and re-assemble the nzxt sentry: Waited for a couple of hours and put togueter the whole thing to give you an idea of how it´s going to look, no hardware inside or lights, just the bare paint, except of course some other symbols and paint details which will do further on. That´s all for today : ) // Hi! Third Day of the tutorial: Today I did the Cylon logos on the case, I wanted to use the classic one on the side and a modernized version on the front. Instead of the classic green I´ve gone for some purple. Now, this is what happens when they dont have the usual detailing tape your normally use and trust, you go for another brand which says it does the same thing... except it didn´t, the paint went under it and created a slight mess, but no problem, I will be touching it up tomorrow, and this way since this is a tutorial you can also see the things that can go wrong and how to fix them! In the next 4 photos, you will see the preparation and the unfortunate result: That´s all for today, more tomorrow! // Hi everyone, I can´t do much till I get some more gun metal paint on Monday, so for now, I´ve done some illumination testing, for this I figured you really need a video, so I apologize for the quality as I had to use my phone (It´s also the first time I do a video with it, not a big fan of phones :P). Aniway, enjoy! [video=youtube;c2Z-7P06QyE] PS: I am now taking a break over xmas, will return with a last stage update on the first few days of january : )

Hi Guys, I´m currently waiting on some materials to arrive in order to complete the last stage of diabolo (Thread also on here). I´ve been given a netbook that was run over by a car, as you can imagine it´s pretty screwed, casing, screen, ram, hard drive, all gone, surprisingly, the motherboard didnt have any physical signs of damage, so figured, for what it´s worthed, might as well try to see if it works, so took the whole thing out and plugged it in to an external screen and a usb keyboard. Surprisingly, it starts!, went to bios to check everything, even run some startup tools with diagnostics in them, and... it checks out, seems to be in working order. Obviously, buying the parts to fix this netbook would cost as much if not more than buying a new one, and even if it didn´t, I don´t have the need for a netbook. So had a look around the workplace, seeing what spares I had and figuring out what I could do with it, posted on another thread here looking for ideas, but nothing quite convinced me, and then I saw an "old-ish" 17" TFT LCD, bit dusty, but working perfectly. I though, would be cool to integrate the motherboard in to the screen and make an all in one, apple mac style. So I took it appart (the screen) and as it happens, there is enough space inside for it, but figured it would heat up to much, now the backplate of the mobo, i.e. the bottom side of the netbook, was damaged but fixable, i.e. twisted plastic but no cracks. So I fixed it, and put it on the back of the screen, and it seems like a perfect fit, so marked where the holes for the screws would need to go, just to make sure there´s no screen hardware behind them, and, yet again, it matches, quite lucky. So I´m going to be doing that for the next few days, paint wise, I was thinking, either pearl white, or in the same style as my fallout project. Maybe radioactive green, not sure yet. Another idea would be to reconstruct the back of the screen, add new mounting points and build the thing inside with some micro liquid cooling, which would (I think) solve any heating issues. Aniway, here are some pictures: First I took the screen (the 17", not the netbook´s, that was done before and didn´t take any pictures) apart, this is the back cover: The actual panel with it´s other components: The netbook´s motherboard, note that the middle pcb striple is removable, would be interesting to find out what kind of connection it is that uses and can I get a cable of it, so I don´t have to use an SLI style piece of plastic to connect both sides, i.e. taking more space than needed. This is the fixed, netbook´s rear casing which will be used in the case I go for an outside mounting. And this is what it would look like mounted on the outside (bare of course, covers have been removed, etc, etc, etc). // Hi Guys, Finally had some time to go round to my local suplies shop and bought the dremel drillbits I needed for this (didn´t have the right size for the screws I wanted to use, normally I´d say, use different screws, but I decided on the screws normally used to mount fans as the grip very well. This surface being thing and plastic, can use all the grip it can get). Furthermore, I´ve decided to mount it outside for several reasons. Looking in to obtaining power from the usb (5v) I could only find a few led strips that did the job, unfortunately they where (god knows why) stupidly expensive and I wasnt even sure how they would look (if they had been cheap I would´ve gotten them even if it was just to experiment with them). Reason 2 is, the enclosure is a perfect fit on the back of the monitor, and it seemed like a waste not taking advantage of this. The final reason is, I have to finish diabolo, this, and yet another small project in 2 and a half weeks, so I want to streamline it a bit and I personally think it looks great on the outside, while doing it inside would be more for the challenge, at this point I don´t think it´s needed. On another note, I will be adding to the setup the philips ambx, of course with a paintjob to match, and seeing as I´ve decided to go for a white paintjob with black details, the light emited by the rig should add a very cool effect to the paintjob. So as I said, I got the right drillbits and made 4 mounting holes: Also used the original netbook´s mounting holes but made them big enough for the screws while not going over it´s original design, so it looks factory standard. Sanded everything down and gave it a coat of primer: And after it had dried and sanded it down a bit, the first coat of Icy White: I am now waiting for it to dry in order to give it it´s second coat. PS: I came up for a name for the project, it is now named Project: AIO AL (as in All-In-One AmbiLight) // Update time: Second coat of icy white done, unfortunately I wasn´t happy with how it turned out as it had bubles in some places, at first I though it was just trapped air, but when I sanded it down and re-painted it, it appeared again, I noticed some other imperfections on the rest of the screen, yet not on the netbook so it can´t be the paint, aniway, sanded it all down, got rid of the paint, reaplied 2 coats of primer just to make sure, white, same thing happened, must have something to do with the material of the screen, no idea, aniway, since at this stage I am not discarding this screen I´ve done my best in disguising the imperfections. Aniway, covered the parts that would remain white and started on the black parts: Once dried I removed the masking tape, there is some detailing work needed but no problems, it´s easy enough : ) Figured I´d do a test mount of the backplate: Unfortunately found out that it wasn´t as perfect fit as I though but no problem, sanded down certain parts in order to make it a perfect fit and... Pretty perfect fit no? ; ) So marked the backplate, following the black patern, took it off and started painting it: 2 coats done, now have to wait for the second coat to try, mount it, do some detailing where the black has gone in to the white a bit, lacquer the whole thing and we´ll go from there. Next update hopefully tomorrow : ) // Update: Painting of the center unit (screen with mounted system) is finished, line detailing is fixed and all has been lacquered with a clear glossy finish. Next update will be of the system put togueter and the start of the painting of the philips ambx system. // Quick update: I´ve put all the hardware togueter plus some test ram and test hdd (not the final components) and I´m about to install windows and do some stress testing to monitor stability and temps. Luckily, it all started the first time : ) PS: Don´t worry, no HDD was in at the time of picture ; )

As the title says, I have decided to do a full project (mostly painting) in a week. I will be using my first ever non-beige computer case that recently came back to my possesion. (I had given the pc to my sister around 8 years ago and she finally got a new one). I originally bought the case around 10 years ago and was my first self built PC. You might be asking, But Luciel, why use that old piece of crap when you could be using an awesome modern case? Well, I would say nostalgia and a way of getting back to my roots and "upgrading" them to my current skills. I have no idea of what the case´s brand or model is, I bought it in a computer fair in the UK back then when the whole pre-modded case market was starting. The idea came to me last night (or, this night if you´re picky about it technically being the same day) when I was lying in bed from 3am till 7am with no success in sleeping (Spain) is bloody hot right now at nights. So I decided to get up, get down to my workbench and start it up. I will continue the log as soon as I upload the pictures (on a rather embarrasingly slow connection here) and detail everything I´ve been doing. Enough to say I have dismantled the old crappy hardware inside it (although the ASUS A7N8X-E was pretty epic bac then) and the case itself, cleaned it as best I could (the age really shows) and will proceed to sand it as soon as the shops open ( it´´s 8.45am here) and I can get some sanding paper! and prepare it for paint which hopefully I will start today. The hardware that´s going to be used in this build is the following: eVGA 790i Ultra SLI Q6600 4x2 DDR3 1600 Corsair ram (yes I know it will create a bottleneck, but this are second hand parts I have laying about). 2x GTX275 3x Seagate SATA2 750Gb 1x dvd rewriter 1x memory card reader Thermaltake bigwater b770 CPU wc system SB X-FI platinum pro I will also be ordering an MCP water block as the mcp in this board gets notoriously hot in SLI configs (right under one of the cards) I will also be painting the gpus, sound card, hdds, and dvd drive casing to go with the design. This system will be replacing my current main PC (the fallout case project shown in this sites case gallery, which, if anyone´s interested I´ll be selling, just the case) As my P67 asus board is being RMA´d so will be using the LGA 775 for now, and I will sorely miss my i5 2500k). Again, I will be updating this thread with info and pictures of the whole process as the day goes by (I need to buy everything needed this morning as my car will be in the garage for a week getting fixed and re-sprayed). As a last message for now, I encourage anyone to try the one week mod challenge, It´s not my first time and it can be a lot of fun : ) (even if its just to ebay it afterwards). Thanks in advanced for all comments and suggestions : =) // It´s now 11am, I just got back from leaving the car at the garage, and apparently I may get it back before the end of the week (awesome)! But more importantly, I got back from buying the paint, and other supplies I needed for this project. So, here it goes (excuse the crappy camera, I have already asked a friend for his much better camera that he will bring down tomorrow): I went down to my work-area and, admitedly, I hadn´t been down there for a while, as most computer related work I´ve done in my room recently as I´ve had nothing major. Problem with this kind of thing is that, if you need to store something, you end up putting it there and thing, ah I´ll sort it out when I need space to work (lol, yeah right). So, rather than actually try and sort things out (it´s 7.30am!!!!!!!!) I figured I´d just "relocate" stuff off the workbench. Sorted... So here is the case, with the original pc still in it, now, as you can see, it´s not in the best of shapes and it´s had a hell of a lot of use and while it has been taken more or less care off, 10 years doesn´t do any favours to a pc tower. So, first thing, dismantle the whole thing and... most likely throw away that old hardware, most of it is on it´s way out aniway. Dirty, let´s clean the whole thing up. Well, that´s as clean as it´s going to get, at least the chasis, I will be sanding (is that the right word?) down all the panels and getting them ready for painting. I shall be doing this as soon as I press submit reply on this post. On the side window I have opted to get rid of the acrylic, which is in really bad shape (brown with smoke and scratched to hell). I could replace it with some left over acrylic I had from another project, but I´m really liking the idea of mesh (i´ve used it before for a sidepanel and loved the look, the only downside is that the insides aren´t as visible as with acrylic, although I guess I could try and find some really fine mesh, any suggestions on this? Until later! // It´s 11.45am, I have finished sanding all the parts, I hate sanding, plus I could never get it quite right when there where imperfections in the original paint to begin with ¬¬ (removing them), I had to use some dissolvant to remove the sticky pads left behind the original neons (back when they where actually neons, as opposed to cold cathodes or leds). The fumes... weeeeeeeeeeeee :p Ok, it´s 13.30pm, nearly time for lunch here, and I have now given the 3 coats of the base color (in this case, black) to all the parts of the case (a big thanks go to whoever invented fast drying acrylic car paint, a bit more expensive than normal acrylic, but totally worthied if you don´t like waiting for paint to dry, and let´s face it, who does). Right well, I think I deserved lunch, plus, I really needed fresh air after that, awfull fumessssssssssss, plus, stake for lunch, After lunch I will proceed with the next stage of painting. // It´s 15.00pm, I´ve now prepped and base-coated 2 of the devices in the case, the dvd rewriter and the memory card reader (with bluetooth, because, everything is better with bluetooth). I am currently preparing the case, as a whole for exterior painting (using masking tape from the inside on any holes so paint does not get inside the case). Short update due to me having to come up for the backplate of the mobo, might as well paint it with the case since I´m at it (rather than having to paint it seperately later). // It´s 16.30pm, I have assembled the case, taped the stripes I want to remain black (more on that at a later point), and given 2 coats of the radioactive green (surprise! or not if you guessed due to the mobo design, if so, kudos!), here´s the first coat, to which I, before anything, added a few loose drops (squirter cap) of alloy silver, and while the pictures, due to ****ty camera just show blobs of paint, I assure you, the end result is random drops of extra shiny radioactiveness. // And the second coat: As you can see, this is why I used a black undercoat, because if I had used white, it would look pale and matt as seen on the masking tape. However the problem with this is that, also as you can see, it still has a few coats to go, acrylic paint needs loads of coats to become one solid (or like I´m aiming for here, almost solid color, and since it´s a dual layer color (this color includes an extra base coat and the color itself) it takes twice as long to dry, so 25 min between coats. // It´s 17.45pm I have now given everything 7 coats (yup, 7) I can´t believe it took that much to actually get to the final color in an even way (I decided to go fully even, as the shades I tried didn´t quite live to my expectations with this color). I really hate how this camera doesn´t do it justice, it kind of makes it look matt, when it´s completely metallic but ok. I will now give it one hour to settle, I will then proceed to give it 3 coats of clear lacquer, normally I will only give it two, but considering the ammount of coats it needed, I feel it really needs a third, this whole process should take about an hour, once dried (another 30 minutes on top) I will remove all the masking tape and take pictures with a much better camera so you guys can see the real final result on the paint outside. While there´s a few details I want to add on the black parts (the stripes, again, more on that when it´s done) at least you´ll get an idea of the final look of the paintjob side. If, and I stress the if part, I feel like it, I will begin the cable management and add the mobo. Things to come: Cable management I really should buy green sleeving. Painting the GPU casing in that same green (remember, the interior remains black, so it will give a nice contrast). Re-assemble the front panel, I have decided to keep the original black X on the front as a nostalgia part of the original case, however, since the logo is gone, I will find out where I can order a new one (different one from the original). Buy 2 led flat green bulbs to replace the blue ones in the frontal detail. Painting the Water Cooling pump and radiator. Buy an acrylic cpu waterblock Buy an acrylic mcp waterblock I had though on painting the ram coolers but because I can´t detach them of the ram itself, I´m not going to risk it, they will have to remain silver. Paint the top half (the safe part) of the 3 hdds. More cable management (yay). Paint the casing of the SB X-Fi I´m proably forgetting something (oh right, more cable management) but this is all I can think of right now, do make suggestions. Thanks again for watching/reading about this fun, but hectic, project.

Hi Everyone, This is the third and final mod of the season for me. I am currently waiting for my philips ambx to arrive for my "AIO AL" (a.k.a. "Nameless" mod also posted on here) and to get my hands dirty on finishing the remake of the horns and other details on "Diabolo" (also posted on here). All three will be on show at the MLP event in Murcia, Spain from the 6th to the 11th of December. Fallout Cause SP (Slim & Passive) is the succesor to my fav mod of my own creation "Fallout Cause", it was just a paintjob yet it was before I got in to making worklogs and I´ve learnt so much since then that I want to do something new in the same style as FC was. About the conditions, maybe some of you remember my previous "Mod in a Week" project (a.k.a. Acid Burn), the conditions are the same, Start to Finish happens within a week, starting to day, Saturday 26-11-11 so it will be finished by Saturday the 3rd of December as the latest. All products needed have to be bought/ordered and received within this period. This of course puts limitations on what I can use but that´s also part of the fun in this kind of project. I chose to start today as the products from the sponsors for this project arrived. Informatica Outlets is simply the must go to website in Spain for great deals on hardware and all needed components to build a PC. So thank you very much Informaticaoutlets.com for your sponsorship on this project! The products sponsored for this project are: B-Move Slim II M-ATX low profile case Intel Celeron Dual Core E3400 ASUS EN210 GeForce Gigabyte G41MT-S2PT Motherboard Other products sponsored include a memory card reader for the case, a 250gb seagate barracuda sata2 hard drive and an LG CD/DVD rewriter. As the name of the project suggests, I am aiming for making the whole computer passive, i.e. no fans, which is why I´ve gone for the ASUS 210 low profile silent GPU, and the celeron intel cpu, as it´s a low end basic cpu, it should be the easiest socket 775 cpu to cool without fans, just a heatsink and decent thermal paste. Other products I´ve acquired today for this project are: Thermaltake Mini-Typhoon CPU Cooler 2x2Gb Corsair XMS3 1600Mhz (I know this mobo supports up to 1333 but its fine, it will help keep the ram cool to underclock it plus I got a simply great deal on them). Let´s start then. 1st Day - Saturday 26-11-2011 So I´ve done a quick bench-test to make sure all the hardware is working fine and in deed, no problems whatsoever. Because the B-Move Slim II is a low profile m-atx case I pressume meant for an HTPC, most aftermarket heatsinks will not fit, but I can´t use the stock intel heatsink because it´s cooling power is virtually non-existant without a fan. So I´ve gone for the thermaltake mini-typhoon as I got a great deal on it and it has a decent copper surface that should keep the cpu cool enough without a fan. So I mounted it with Noctua NX-1 thermalpaste, and went on to do some temp testing without a mounted fan. On idle I get 54c, on stress testing, it doesn´t go over 76c now, this are high temps for such a cpu, but remember it´s being passive cooled and the temps are within safe boundaries so I can check that off the list. Again because the case is low profile, the cooler will not fit even without a fan, I knew this, hell, I wanted this to happen so I could cut a hole on the side of the case to expose the copper which will add to the final look, if any of you have seen my original Fallout Cause, you´ll know exactly what I mean : ) So, 1st, let´s cut the hole: Now to test it on the case: Very nice fit! next issue, the cpu cooler´s mounting possition means that the ram doesn´t fit because of it´s cooler, thing is, I like the cooler and rather not have to shave the trimmings off, so, did some measurements, and it would seem cutting off one of the cpu cooler´s pipes is the way to go, so that´s what I did: Now for mounting tests: Now as you can see it fits fine but its in contact with the ram stick by very little, my question is, would this affect anything in any way? would it transfer heat to the ram heatsink or the other way round? Should I trim the ram heatsink? That´s it for today, tomorrow I prep further modification to the case, I am planning on openings and signs of aging and damage caused by rust and the extreme conditions of a fallout post-apocalyptic wasteland. Thanks for reading! : ) /// 2nd Day - Sunday 27-11-11 Today is destruction day, I will make all the destroyed sections of the case to give it that fallout rusted out/cannon´d out look. When I get to the painting part I will aid this look by giving a rust look to all the edges and adding epoxy to simulate edges fusing togueter due to rust (i.e. the grills). First thing however, is to trim that last lip of the memory module heatsink that´s driving me mad due to it being in contact with the cpu cooler, so here we go: Much better, it´s barely noticeable and it is no longer in contact with the cpu heatsink. Now it´s dremel time, I have to say I´m surprised at how thick and strong the metal is on this case, specially having in mind it´s a low end case so it´s mostly made out of scrap metal as they tend to do, I went through 2 heavy duty dremel discs in order to complete all the cutting. Once done I plied them backwards for two reasons, first, be it bullets, blunt tools or other, the impact would always be towards the case so it makes sense it´s pushed inwards, the second reason being to prevent sharp edges on the outside. Here we go: And that about does it, I though of adding more as certain parts of the case looked to "clean" if you know what I mean, but I can always add imperfections and artificial damages when doing the paintjob and it´s effects. I think my fav one is the chunk missing from the side that lets you look right in to the cpu heatsink. Tomorrow I will add similar effects on a small scale to the front of the case obviously very carefully, don´t want to brake any of the hooks that attach it to the rest of the case. But for today that´s it. Thank you for reading! // 3rd Day - Monday 28-11-11 - Update 1 Last night while I was in bed I started thinking about the things I should do today and if I should paint the philips ambx that arrived yesterday evening for the AIO AL project or leave that till I finished this one this saturday. While having the AIO AL project in my mind I though, hmm I wander if I could add a screen to this project, I know I cant integrate it on the side because there´s no extra sheet of metal, pretty much the side is what the mobo is attached too. I know I can´t use fiberglass to attach it to it because while it would look decent, it wouldn´t have air breathing, and it would just overheat, not to mention adding heat to the sheet and therefore to the mobo and cpu, so that was a no go, figured I´d scrap that idea and I went to sleep. This morning however while I was looking at the screen and the case it bothered me because I really liked the concept of adding a screen but couldn´t find a way to do it, but I had some spare time so I figured I´d take the screen apart and see if an idea popped in to my head, as I removed the bezel and platform I clicked, mounts! it´s so obvious, why on earth didn´t I think of that before! So I took some measurements, did some screen hw mounting within the tower checked cable lenghts, everything checks out. So started to process. First thing, a straight cut wide enough to pass cables through and use them as a grip for the mounting: Now it was time to make the hole big enough for the bolt to go through, so figured I´d use the dremel to make a small starting hole, took forever to go through that, I hadn´t realised just how thick that sheet of metal was. Once done I took a drill, with the right drillbit on started, took me about 40 minutes to do both holes, mainly because I didn´t want to press to hard so not to go spoil the drillbit, eventually got there and installed the first mount: added some washers and tightened it up: Now the second one and a test mount: Feels quite solid, I think I will add some feet on the opposite side so no stress is on the screwed in side, so I will look for some later on. Now for a proper test mount of the screen´s psu and chipset: And it fits perfectly: That´s it for now, I will post a second update later today. Thanks for reading!

Ragazzi visto il tempo di crisi per ora non posso fare un grosso upgrade al mio pc,però voglio fare delle modifiche a partire dal case e volevo una mano. Il case in questione è l'Asus Vento AB,le modifiche che volevo fare sono le seguenti: -Apertura di una finestra al pannello laterale e aggiunta di plexiglass -Foratura piastra mobo per creare un sistema cablaggio cavi -Foratura piastra mobo per creare finestra per eventuali backplate per dissipatori. -Verniciatura (colore da decidere :cheazz:) -Cambio ventole con aggiunta di ventole performanti e silenziose. Ora mi serve una mano da voi, vorrei sapere se riuscite a trovarmi l'altezza massima per eventuali dissipatori mod e larghezza per eventuale cambio vga. Non sono riuscito a trovare nulla su internet anche xkè il case è vecchiotto,xò se mi dite come posso misurare da me questi valori domani mi metto subito all'opera e metto foto.:clapclap:

Modding Magazine Nasce Modding Magazine, realizzata dai ragazzi di ItaliaModding, rappresenta la prima "Fanzine" sul modding, una rivista per gli appassionati di questa disciplina. Di seguito raccoglieremo il link a tutti i numeri usciti. Numero Zero: Dicembre 2011 In questo numero: MODDING 08 | modding e cinema MODDING 14 | modding e steampunk GUIDE 18 | guida alla marmorizzazione STRUMENTI 24 | l ’amico dremel INTERVISTE 30 | intervista a dagored INTERVISTE 36 | intervista a weisses RECENSIONI 46 | noctua nh-c14

Ciao ragazzi, domani 13/12/2011, alle ore 17:00 su Tele Lombardia, canale 294, verrà mandata in onda la puntata speciale Modding nella trasmissione Top Tech. Si tratta di un' intervista fatta nel mese di Settembre a modder del calibro di Gianluca Tait (G69T), hilenaluna, il nostro Defcon e Andrea Marconcini in rappresentanza dell' oratorio S. Maurizio di Sesto San Giovanni, il quale parlerà di come il modding possa essere utilizzato come materia educativa e creativa anche per i piccoli che frequentano l' oratorio. Ovviamente ci sarò anche io, pertanto, dovrete sorbirvi anche la mia intervista Non mancate

Ciao a tutti! Ho la necessità di moddare il mio NZXT Phantom, dato che non ha una finestra laterale.. volevo chiedere se sapevate indicarmi il nome in italiano, se ce n'è uno specifico, e magari un sito dove acquistare quel tipo di gomma T Channel in modo che possa come da foto, inserire da una parte il plexi e dall'altra il bordo del pannello. Grazie!!!

:cheazz: ciao a tutti volevo sapere se per caso esistono adesivi grandi quanto le fiancate del case middle tower, in modo da dare al mio Aerocool PGS VX-E PRO un aspetto ancora più da gamer.

Primo contest di case-modding per i modder di tutta Europa indotto da Lamptron. Potete parteciparvi iscrivendovi nel thread ufficiale della sezione Lamptron nel forum di Specialtech.co.uk: Lamptron Case-Mod Contest Quindi, Modder, scaldate i vostri dremel perché si comincia a fare sul serio!

ciao ragazzi. vorrei aggiungere un ventola(per migliorare ventilazione interna) da 8 in un pannetto laterale di un case hp ,posizionato fra le 2 air duct. la mia idea era di bucare(con un trapano) in tanti piccoli buchi la parte relativa alla ventola e fare buchi appositi per viti negli spazi forati della ventola per l aggancio. le mie domande erano: 1)si puo fare? 2)la ventola a pin da 2 come la collego all alimentatore?(la chassis fan della mobo e gia presa dalla ventola del dissi)ho sentito parlare di adattori molex per che collegherebbero la ventola all ali 3)da chi posso farmi fare il lavoro?un fabbro?(io non ho trapano e mezzi necessari) vi metto la foto con la mia idea cosi potete consigliarmi al meglio http://www.xtremeshack.com/scheda/122604_interno-pc-006.jpg.html grazie!!

Wellaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!! Della serie chi non muore si rivede ehehehe! Questa volta vi porto un mod che nn riguarda un case, ma una postazione di guida diciamo un po... ma non vi dico niente, lo vedrete voi dai prossimi post ahahahah! :perfido: In passato ne ho già fatte diverse in legno, ma sempre pensando solo alla comodità di guida senza l'estetica... Questa volta invece si pensa a tutto: comodità, estetica ed accessoristica! Per prima cosa comincio ringraziando il mio sponsor, non che meccanico ed amico: "Cestari Racing" che mi ha gentilmente regalato un Sedile Sparco Sprint 5 e le sue staffe di fissaggio La mia idea iniziale era di riprodurre in legno il cruscotto della Lamborghini Gallardo, ma ho dovuto rinunciare per via dei costi troppi elevati del materiale che mi sarebbe servito... alla fine non sarebbe nemmeno stato troppo difficile, ma la mancanza di fondi ha avuto la meglio Così ho deciso per un approccio più "Racing" ed ho trovato questo: la plancia di un Saxò VTS in ottimo stato e che mi sono portato a casa ad un prezzo onestissimo, solamente 40 euro!!! Ok, partiamo con i lavori! Purtroppo mancano le primissime fasi di lavorazione... hem... mi ero dimenticato la fotocamera a casa ed il lavoro lo sto facendo in garage... Comunque iniziamo con un po di scatolato in ferro 30x30x2 poi finalmente insieme al mio saldatore di fiducia Flavio detto Fly, abbiamo provato la nostra nuova saldatrice TIG con qualche punto quà e la per dare forma alla struttura e vedere se ci sono da fare delle correzzioni prima di saldare definitivamente il tutto ed ecco la base con il cruscotto sopra Purtroppo una volta montato il tutto ci siamo resi conto di aver toppato un paio di misure, ma no problem si fan saltare via un paio di punti di saldatura e si risalda nel punto giusto In questa postazione eseguirò diverse lavorazioni come: Floccatura della plancia - La "Floccatura" consiste nell'applicare del collante su tutto il cruscotto, il quale sarà ricoperto con un vellutino in polvere. Potete capire di cosa sto parlando semplicemente dando un occhiata ai cruscotti delle auto da Rally o qualsiasi altra auto stradale modificata per le corse! Lavorazione di Lastre in Carbonio per aumentare l'effetto Racing che voglio ottenere Interfacciamento di strumentazione reale come: conta giri, conta km, contatore delle marce, pulsanti e led vari in plancia che comanderanno i vari controlli dell'auto, ecc... Sicuramente qualcuno di voi si starà chiedendo: Ma le diverse auto raggiungono diversi giri del motore e diverse velocità, il conta km come il conta giri di una citroen saxò non raggiungeranno mai i valori di una ferrari! Infatti proprio per questo utilizzerò un conta km digitale ed un contagiri da gara tipo questo Il tutto sarà guarnito da un impianto dolby 5.1, schermo da 27 pollici o 32 full hd led, e chissà cosa mi verrà ancora in mente prima della fine! :smt023 Purtroppo devo rinunciare in partenza all'idea di mettere 3 monitor... sarebbe il massimo ma per far entrare in casa questa postazione devo rimanere dentro delle misure ben precise, ovvero 850mm di larghezza, 1400 di lunghezza e 800mm di altezza Poi magari quando cambio casa ci stà un upgrade con i 3 monitor :clapclap: Come periferica di guida utilizzerò un Logitech G25, al quale applicherò un mozzo per volanti veri e ricostruirò diverse leve del cambio in base al tipo di volante che utilizzerò. Riguardo ai pedali ho diverse idee che vi illustrerò più avanti

Salve, quasi quasi non faccio in tempo a risolvere un problema che se ne presenta uno nuovo. Ho ricevuto un premio da Blurum (se volete sapere cos'è, come funziona e avere dei punti bonus dite pure). Questo premio è un Home Theatre Philips HTS3270 con 5.1 Canali. Il problema è il seguente Non riesco a collegarlo al PC, in nessun modo, l'unico cavo a disposizione che ho adesso e quello Scart che ovviamente posso anche buttare nel senso che non lo devo usare. L'HDMI invece non funziona, ho già provato Restano gli altri metodi. Qui le connessioni disponibili dal PC http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/2379/dscf2680c.jpg Qui le connessioni disponibili dall'Home Theatre http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/1954/dscf2681z.jpg http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/8135/dscf2682e.jpg Ovviamente voglio poter giocare e ascoltare musica dal PC utilizzando il multicanale 5.1 Come faccio? Chiedo aiuto a voi

Ragazzi ho in programma di cambiare case sotto natale, mi sono quindi scervellato su un trilione di prodotti per arrivare ad una conclusione: Voglio un cabinet orizzontale da piazzare sopra la scrivania, o meglio su un mobile che vi sta sopra, dove al momento si trova la stampante. Il punto è che tutte le soluzioni orizzontali sono minuscole scatole HTPC e schifezze come lo skeleton di Antec salvo questi "banchetti" utilizzati per benchmarking... Ora premetto che di un punteggio sul monitor me ne faccio ben poco e di conseguenza non starò a dannare con OC impossibili, ma apprezzo molto l' idea di avere tutto "in vista" e ben areato da tenere qui vicino (e magari quando il Santissimo mi farà trovare un lavoro che non preveda la vendita del proprio corpo mi scasso un liquido). 3 sono le possibilità che ho considerato: Dimastech Easy Dual V2.5, Tecnofront Raven ( ), Microcool 101. Tra questi quale permette un migliore cablaggio per evitare cavi in vista? Intanto sogno una roba del genere:

Easy (ma non per me....) modding salve ragazzi, mi è arrivato il case HAF 932, comprato usato l'utente che l'ha posseduto l'aveva verniciato di nero, ed ora prensenta notevoli punti in cui la vernice si è scrostata per tempo/usura quindi ora necessita di una nuova verniciatura, e ho pensato al nero opaco ho letto la guida che c'è qui sulla verniciatura, ma volevo chiedere ancora alcune cose per essere sicuro - normalmente si procede con sverniciatura con carta vetro,primer, passate di vernice e infine il fissante....essendo già stato roverniciato al tempo, posso saltare la sverniciatura e il primer e darci solo di vernice e vissante? o viene un pasticcio? - nel caso dovessi ripartire da , va bene la carta vetro 600? e il primer, quale consigliate e di che colore (sempre considerando che il prodotto finale dovrà essere nero opaco) - volevo inoltre finestrare il case, avendo già trovato a casa un pannello 50cm x 50cm di plexiglass. con cosa posso tagliare la paratia laterlale del case? la mia idea era: buco con trapano per far passare la lama, tagliere la finestra con seghetto ad arco, e poi incollare il plexi con colla a caldo dall'interno...va bene? o consigliate altri metodi? sempre considerando che non volgio spendere una fortuna per moddarlo grazie a tutti, tutti i consigli saranno ben accetti AGGIORNAMENTO DEL 14.11.2011 il case come si presentava... fasi del lavoro ...e il risultato finale AGGIORNAMENTO DEL 15.11.2011 prime prove per l'installazione del liquido to be continued....